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Chapter 42


Reading was by no means the only method adopted by my shipmates
in whiling away the long, tedious hours in harbour. In truth,
many of them could not have read, had they wanted to ever so
much; in early youth their primers had been sadly neglected.
Still, they had other pursuits; some were experts at the needle,
and employed their time in making elaborate shirts, stitching
picturesque eagles, and anchors, and all the stars of the
federated states in the collars thereof; so that when they at
last completed and put on these shirts, they may be said to have
hoisted the American colors.

Others excelled in _tattooing_ or _pricking_, as it is called in
a man-of-war. Of these prickers, two had long been celebrated, in
their way, as consummate masters of the art. Each had a small box
full of tools and colouring matter; and they charged so high for
their services, that at the end of the cruise they were supposed
to have cleared upward of four hundred dollars. They would
_prick_ you to order a palm-tree, or an anchor, a crucifix, a
lady, a lion, an eagle, or anything else you might want.

The Roman Catholic sailors on board had at least the crucifix
pricked on their arms, and for this reason: If they chanced to
die in a Catholic land, they would be sure of a decent burial in
consecrated ground, as the priest would be sure to observe the
symbol of Mother Church on their persons. They would not fare as
Protestant sailors dying in Callao, who are shoved under the
sands of St. Lorenzo, a solitary, volcanic island in the harbour,
overrun with rep-tiles, their heretical bodies not being
permitted to repose in the more genial loam of Lima.

And many sailors not Catholics were anxious to have the crucifix
painted on them, owing to a curious superstition of theirs. They
affirm--some of them--that if you have that mark tattooed upon all
four limbs, you might fall overboard among seven hundred and
seventy-five thousand white sharks, all dinnerless, and not one
of them would so much as dare to smell at your little finger.

We had one fore-top-man on board, who, during the entire cruise,
was having an endless cable _pricked_ round and round his waist,
so that, when his frock was off, he looked like a capstan with a
hawser coiled round about it. This fore-top-man paid eighteen
pence per link for the cable, besides being on the smart the
whole cruise, suffering the effects of his repeated puncturings;
so he paid very dear for his cable.

One other mode of passing time while in port was cleaning and
polishing your _bright-work_; for it must be known that, in men-
of-war, every sailor has some brass or steel of one kind or other
to keep in high order--like housemaids, whose business it is to
keep well-polished the knobs on the front door railing and the

Excepting the ring-bolts, eye-bolts, and belaying-pins scattered
about the decks, this bright-work, as it is called, is principally
about the guns, embracing the "_monkey-tails_" of the carronades,
the screws, _prickers_, little irons, and other things.

The portion that fell to my own share I kept in superior order,
quite equal in polish to Rogers's best cutlery. I received the
most extravagant encomiums from the officers; one of whom offered
to match me against any brazier or brass-polisher in her British
Majesty's Navy. Indeed, I devoted myself to the work body and
soul, and thought no pains too painful, and no labour too
laborious, to achieve the highest attainable polish possible for
us poor lost sons of Adam to reach.

Upon one occasion, even, when woollen rags were scarce, and no
burned-brick was to be had from the ship's Yeoman, I sacrificed
the corners of my woollen shirt, and used some dentrifice I had,
as substitutes for the rags and burned-brick. The dentrifice
operated delightfully, and made the threading of my carronade
screw shine and grin again, like a set of false teeth in an eager
heiress-hunter's mouth.

Still another mode of passing time, was arraying yourself in your
best "_togs_" and promenading up and down the gun-deck, admiring
the shore scenery from the port-holes, which, in an amphitheatrical
bay like Rio--belted about by the most varied and charming scenery
of hill, dale, moss, meadow, court, castle, tower, grove, vine,
vineyard, aqueduct, palace, square, island, fort--is very much
like lounging round a circular cosmorama, and ever and anon
lazily peeping through the glasses here and there. Oh! there is
something worth living for, even in our man-of-war world;
and one glimpse of a bower of grapes, though a cable's length off,
is almost satisfaction for dining off a shank-bone salted down.

This promenading was chiefly patronised by the marines, and
particularly by Colbrook, a remarkably handsome and very
gentlemanly corporal among them. He was a complete lady's man;
with fine black eyes, bright red cheeks, glossy jet whiskers, and
a refined organisation of the whole man. He used to array himself
in his regimentals, and saunter about like an officer of the
Coldstream Guards, strolling down to his club in St. James's.
Every time he passed me, he would heave a sentimental sigh, and
hum to himself "_The girl I left behind me_." This fine corporal
afterward became a representative in the Legislature of the State
of New Jersey; for I saw his name returned about a year after my
return home.

But, after all, there was not much room, while in port, for
promenading, at least on the gun-deck, for the whole larboard
side is kept clear for the benefit of the officers, who appreciate
the advantages of having a clear stroll fore and aft; and they well
know that the sailors had much better be crowded together on the
other side than that the set of their own coat-tails should be
impaired by brushing against their tarry trowsers.

One other way of killing time while in port is playing checkers;
that is, when it is permitted; for it is not every navy captain
who will allow such a scandalous proceeding, But, as for Captain
Claret, though he _did_ like his glass of Madeira uncommonly
well, and was an undoubted descendant from the hero of the Battle
of the Brandywine, and though he sometimes showed a suspiciously
flushed face when superintending in person the flogging of a
sailor for getting intoxicated against his particular orders, yet
I will say for Captain Claret that, upon the whole, he was rather
indulgent to his crew, so long as they were perfectly docile. He
allowed them to play checkers as much as they pleased. More than
once I have known him, when going forward to the forecastle, pick
his way carefully among scores of canvas checker-cloths spread
upon the deck, so as not to tread upon the men--the checker-men
and man-of-war's-men included; but, in a certain sense, they were
both one; for, as the sailors used their checker-men, so, at
quarters, their officers used these man-of-war's men.

But Captain Claret's leniency in permitting checkers on board his
ship might have arisen from the following little circumstance,
confidentially communicated to me. Soon after the ship had sailed
from home, checkers were prohibited; whereupon the sailors were
exasperated against the Captain, and one night, when he was walking
round the forecastle, bim! came an iron belaying-pin past his ears;
and while he was dodging that, bim! came another, from the other side;
so that, it being a very dark night, and nobody to be seen, and it
being impossible to find out the trespassers, he thought it best to
get back into his cabin as soon as possible. Some time after--just as
if the belaying-pins had nothing to do with it--it was indirectly
rumoured that the checker-boards might be brought out again, which--as
a philosophical shipmate observed--showed that Captain Claret was a
man of a ready understanding, and could understand a hint as well
as any other man, even when conveyed by several pounds of iron.

Some of the sailors were very precise about their checker-cloths,
and even went so far that they would not let you play with them
unless you first washed your hands, especially if so be you had
just come from tarring down the rigging.

Another way of beguiling the tedious hours, is to get a cosy seat
somewhere, and fall into as snug a little reverie as you can. Or
if a seat is not to be had--which is frequently the case--then
get a tolerably comfortable _stand-up_ against the bulwarks, and
begin to think about home and bread and butter--always inseparably
connected to a wanderer--which will very soon bring delicious tears
into your eyes; for every one knows what a luxury is grief, when you
can get a private closet to enjoy it in, and no Paul Prys intrude.
Several of my shore friends, indeed, when suddenly overwhelmed by some
disaster, always make a point of flying to the first oyster-cellar,
and shutting themselves up in a box with nothing but a plate of stewed
oysters, some crackers, the castor, and a decanter of old port.

Still another way of killing time in harbour, is to lean over the
bulwarks, and speculate upon where, under the sun, you are going to be
that day next year, which is a subject full of interest to every living
soul; so much so, that there is a particular day of a particular month
of the year, which, from my earliest recollections, I have always kept
the run of, so that I can even now tell just where I was on that
identical day of every year past since I was twelve years old. And,
when I am all alone, to run over this almanac in my mind is almost as
entertaining as to read your own diary, and far more interesting than
to peruse a table of logarithms on a rainy afternoon. I always keep the
anniversary of that day with lamb and peas, and a pint of sherry, for
it comes in Spring. But when it came round in the Neversink, I could
get neither lamb, peas, nor sherry.

But perhaps the best way to drive the hours before you four-in-hand,
is to select a soft plank on the gun-deck, and go to sleep. A fine
specific, which seldom fails, unless, to be sure, you have been
sleeping all the twenty-four hours beforehand.

Whenever employed in killing time in harbour, I have lifted
myself up on my elbow and looked around me, and seen so many of
my shipmates all employed at the same common business; all under
lock and key; all hopeless prisoners like myself; all under
martial law; all dieting on salt beef and biscuit; all in one
uniform; all yawning, gaping, and stretching in concert, it was
then that I used to feel a certain love and affection for them,
grounded, doubtless, on a fellow-feeling.

And though, in a previous part of this narrative, I have
mentioned that I used to hold myself somewhat aloof from the mass
of seamen on board the Neversink; and though this was true, and
my real acquaintances were comparatively few, and my intimates
still fewer, yet, to tell the truth, it is quite impossible to
live so long with five hundred of your fellow-beings, even if not
of the best families in the land, and with morals that would not
be spoiled by further cultivation; it is quite impossible, I say,
to live with five hundred of your fellow-beings, be they who they
may, without feeling a common sympathy with them at the time, and
ever after cherishing some sort of interest in their welfare.

The truth of this was curiously corroborated by a rather
equivocal acquaintance of mine, who, among the men, went by the
name of "_Shakings_." He belonged to the fore-hold, whence, of a
dark night, he would sometimes emerge to chat with the sailors on
deck. I never liked the man's looks; I protest it was a mere
accident that gave me the honour of his acquaintance, and
generally I did my best to avoid him, when he would come
skulking, like a jail-bird, out of his den into the liberal, open
air of the sky. Nevertheless, the anecdote this _holder_ told me
is well worth preserving, more especially the extraordinary frankness
evinced in his narrating such a thing to a comparative stranger.

The substance of his story was as follows: Shakings, it seems,
had once been a convict in the New York State's Prison at Sing
Sing, where he had been for years confined for a crime, which he
gave me his solemn word of honour he was wholly innocent of. He
told me that, after his term had expired, and he went out into
the world again, he never could stumble upon any of his old Sing
Sing associates without dropping into a public house and talking
over old times. And when fortune would go hard with him, and he
felt out of sorts, and incensed at matters and things in general,
he told me that, at such time, he almost wished he was back again
in Sing Sing, where he was relieved from all anxieties about what
he should eat and drink, and was supported, like the President of
the United States and Prince Albert, at the public charge. He
used to have such a snug little cell, he said, all to himself,
and never felt afraid of house-breakers, for the walls were
uncommonly thick, and his door was securely bolted for him, and a
watchman was all the time walking up and down in the passage,
while he himself was fast asleep and dreaming. To this, in
substance, the _holder_ added, that he narrated this anecdote
because he thought it applicable to a man-of-war, which he
scandalously asserted to be a sort of State Prison afloat.

Concerning the curious disposition to fraternise and be sociable,
which this Shakings mentioned as characteristic of the convicts
liberated from his old homestead at Sing Sing, it may well be
asked, whether it may not prove to be some feeling, somehow akin
to the reminiscent impulses which influenced them, that shall
hereafter fraternally reunite all us mortals, when we shall have
exchanged this State's Prison man-of-war world of ours for
another and a better.

From the foregoing account of the great difficulty we had in
killing time while in port, it must not be inferred that on board
of the Neversink in Rio there was literally no work to be done,
at long intervals the _launch_ would come alongside with water-
casks, to be emptied into iron tanks in the hold. In this way
nearly fifty thousand gallons, as chronicled in the books of the
master's mate, were decanted into the ship's bowels--a ninety
day's allowance. With this huge Lake Ontario in us, the mighty
Neversink might be said to resemble the united continent of the
Eastern Hemisphere--floating in a vast ocean herself, and having
a Mediterranean floating in her.

Herman Melville