Chapter 43

A rapid march A cloud of dust Wild horsemen "High Jinks"

Horseracing and rifle-shooting The game of hand The fishing

season Mode of fishing Table lands Salmon fishers The

captain's visit to an Indian lodge The Indian girl The pocket

mirror Supper Troubles of an evil conscience.

"UP and away!" is the first thought at daylight of the Indian

trader, when a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained.

Early in the morning, Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried

meat to be packed upon the horses, and leaving Wyeth and his

party to hunt the scattered buffalo, pushed off rapidly to the

east, to regain the plain of the Portneuf. His march was rugged

and dangerous; through volcanic hills, broken into cliffs and

precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, where the rocks

rose like walls.

On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain,

and as it was still early some of the men strolled out to the

neighboring hills. In casting their eyes round the country, they

perceived a great cloud of dust rising in the south, and

evidently approaching. Hastening back to the camp, they gave the

alarm. Preparations were instantly made to receive an enemy;

while some of the men, throwing themselves upon the "running

horses" kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In a

little while, they made signals from a distance that all was

friendly. By this time the cloud of dust had swept on as if

hurried along by a blast, and a band of wild horsemen came

dashing at full leap into the camp, yelling and whooping like so

many maniacs. Their dresses, their accoutrements, their mode of

riding, and their uncouth clamor, made them seem a party of

savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be principally

half-breeds, and white men grown savage in the wilderness, who

were employed as trappers and hunters in the service of the

Hudson's Bay Company.

Here was again "high jinks" in the camp. Captain Bonneville's men

hailed these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as

the very game birds of their class. They entertained them with

the hospitality of mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At

first, there were mutual details of adventures and exploits, and

broad joking mingled with peals of laughter. Then came on

boasting of the comparative merits of horses and rifles, which

soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to racing, and

shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded

another, shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious

parties, fierce altercations succeeded, and a general melee was

about to take place, when suddenly the attention of the

quarrellers was arrested by a strange kind of Indian chant or

chorus, that seemed to operate upon them as a charm. Their fury

was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded and the ideas of

the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws were

turned in a new direction. They all formed into groups and taking

their places at the several fires, prepared for one of the most

exciting amusements of the Nez Perces and the other tribes of the

Far West.

The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a

kind of wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of "Hand."

This is played by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons

before a blazing fire. It is in some respects like the old game

of passing the ring or the button, and detecting the hand which

holds it. In the present game, the object hidden, or the cache as

it is called by the trappers, is a small splint of wood, or other

diminutive article that may be concealed in the closed hand. This

is passed backward and forward among the party "in hand," while

the party "out of hand" guess where it is concealed. To heighten

the excitement and confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles

are laid before each platoon, upon which the members of the party

"in hand" beat furiously with short staves, keeping time to the

choral chant already mentioned, which waxes fast and furious as

the game proceeds. As large bets are staked upon the game, the

excitement is prodigious. Each party in turn bursts out in full

chorus, beating, and yelling, and working themselves up into such

a heat that the perspiration rolls down their naked shoulders,

even in the cold of a winter night. The bets are doubled and

trebled as the game advances, the mental excitement increases

almost to madness, and all the worldly effects of the gamblers

are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.

These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every

fire glared upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at

their frantic orgies, and the scene would have been kept up

throughout the succeeding day, had not Captain Bonneville

interposed his authority, and, at the usual hour, issued his

marching orders.

Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly

returned to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were

yet scarcely able to fly, and were easily caught in great

numbers. It was now the season of the annual fish-feast, with

which the Indians in these parts celebrate the first appearance

of the salmon in this river. These fish are taken in great

numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet pitch. The

Indians flank the shallow water just below, and spear them as

they attempt to pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they

place a sort of chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven

with withes, and forming an angle in the middle of the current,

where a small opening is left for the salmon to pass. Around this

opening the Indians station themselves on small rafts, and ply

their spears with great success.

The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil,

inconsiderable in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly

speaking, wormwood. Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven

occasionally by frightful chasms. The whole plain rises as it

approaches the river, and terminates with high and broken cliffs,

difficult to pass, and in many places so precipitous that it is

impossible, for days together, to get down to the water's edge,

to give drink to the horses. This obliges the traveller

occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the river, and make a

wide sweep into the interior.

It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered

extremely from sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and

gnats, too, were extremely troublesome to the horses; especially

when keeping along the edge of the river where it runs between

low sand-banks. Whenever the travellers encamped in the

afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly shores and remained

there, without attempting to feed until the cool of the evening.

As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool

current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves

after the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and

pleasant.

At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was

nearly five hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands,

adorned with groves of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians

were assembled in great numbers, and had barricaded the channels

between the islands, to enable them to spear the salmon with

greater facility. They were a timid race, and seemed unaccustomed

to the sight of white men. Entering one of the huts, Captain

Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding to cook a fine

salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and hung

over the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is

considered cooked.

Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the

captain awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite

himself to the repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his

intrusion in good part. While conversing with him the captain

felt something move behind him, and turning round and removing a

few skins and old buffalo robes, discovered a young girl, about

fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, who directed her large

black eyes full in his face, and continued to gaze in mute

surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her fears,

and drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly

to tie it round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt,

uttering a sound very much like a snarl; nor could all the

blandishments of the captain, albeit a pleasant, good-looking,

and somewhat gallant man, succeed in conquering the shyness of

the savage little beauty. His attentions were now turned toward

the parents, whom he presented with an awl and a little tobacco,

and having thus secured their good-will, continued to smoke his

pipe, and watch the salmon. While thus seated near the threshold,

an urchin of the family approached the door, but catching a sight

of the strange guest, ran off screaming with terror and ensconced

himself behind the long straw at the back of the hut.

Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade

with the simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt,

had furs somewhere concealed, the captain now drew forth that

grand lure in the eyes of a savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of

it was irresistible. After examining it for a long time with

wonder and admiration, they produced a musk-rat skin, and offered

it in exchange. The captain shook his head; but purchased the

skin for a couple of buttons - superfluous trinkets! as the

worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which

to place them.

The mirror still continued the great object of desire,

particularly in the eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot

of parched flour and a string of biscuit roots. These procured

her some trifle in return; but could not command the purchase of

the mirror. The salmon being now completely cooked, they all

joined heartily in supper. A bounteous portion was deposited

before the captain by the old woman, upon some fresh grass, which

served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted a salmon

boiled so completely to his fancy.

Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to

his host, who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils

so assiduously, that in a little while his head manifested signs

of confusion and dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of

the kindly and companionable qualities of the captain, he became

easy and communicative; and at length hinted something about

exchanging beaver skins for horses. The captain at once offered

to dispose of his steed, which stood fastened at the door. The

bargain was soon concluded, whereupon the Indian, removing a pile

of bushes under which his valuables were concealed, drew forth

the number of skins agreed upon as the price.

Shortly afterward, some of the captain's people coming up, he

ordered another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his

departure from the hut, after distributing a few trifling

presents among its simple inhabitants. During all the time of his

visit, the little Indian girl had kept her large black eyes fixed

upon him, almost without winking, watching every movement with

awe and wonder; and as he rode off, remained gazing after him,

motionless as a statue. Her father, however, delighted with his

new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, and followed

in the train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a

faithful and useful adherent during his sojourn in the

neighborhood.

The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the

conduct of one of the captain's men, who had been in the

California expedition. During all their intercourse with the

harmless people of this place, he had manifested uneasiness and

anxiety. While his companions mingled freely and joyously with

the natives, he went about with a restless, suspicious look;

scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting often at

the sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who

regarded him with reverence as a superior being. Yet this was

ordinarily a bold fellow, who never flinched from danger, nor

turned pale at the prospect of a battle. At length he requested

permission of Captain Bonneville to keep out of the way of these

people entirely. Their striking resemblance, he said, to the

people of Ogden's River, made him continually fear that some

among them might have seen him in that expedition; and might seek

an opportunity of revenge. Ever after this, while they remained

in this neighborhood, he would skulk out of the way and keep

aloof when any of the native inhabitants approached. "Such,"

observed Captain Bonneville, "is the effect of self-reproach,

even upon the roving trapper in the wilderness, who has little

else to fear than the stings of his own guilty conscience."