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Ripe red tomatoes beat heavy sauce blues

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From: Chicago Sun-Times
Date: 19900823
Author:Anne Mendelson

UFwiS S o-called "Italian" tomato sauce is as American as John Philip Sousa, who once composed a spaghetti recipe involving a sauce seasoned within an inch of its life and simmered for 5 1/2 hours. You can find that recipe in The Stag Cook Book, a 1922 compilation "written for men by men," with contributions by such worthies as Rube Goldberg, Warren G. Harding and Booth Tarkington.

From sea to shining sea, we've been eating thick, pungent sauces of this kind ever since Depression-era spaghetti joints became fixtures in every sizable town. Visiting Italians are often known to wonder whether ...

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